Potato recommendations
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Potato recommendations
In Iowa here... what do you guys suggest for a white and red potato? Looking for long shelf life too.
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- svalli
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Re: Potato recommendations
Red skinned Mozart is the variety, which has had longest shelf life in our root cellar. It is also great as baked potato. The variety is from UK, so I do not know its availability is US.
Sari
Sari
"I only want to live in peace, plant potatoes and dream."
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- Moomin-troll by Tove Jansson
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Re: Potato recommendations
For whiie, Kennebec or Mega Chip. Both store a long time. For red, Red Norland or Red Pontiac. They've been standard in the Midwest for ages.
Martin
Martin
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Re: Potato recommendations
I really enjoy Red Norland. For a red-all-the-way-through potato, AmaRosa fingerling (delicious!).
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Re: Potato recommendations
Kennebec and Red Norland also grew the best in my PA garden for white and red, with Kennebec good for storage- Red Norland needs to be used up first. All Red was a really good producer, too, and kept well also. I like the all blue varieties for their antioxidants, too, and found that Adirondack Blue kept the longest of all I've tried. Then you can also make red, white, and blue potato salad for the 4th of July!
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Re: Potato recommendations
Green Mountain is a fantastic white baking potato that keeps really well. Adirondack Red is the red inside spud I've settled on, and it keeps well, too. Red Norland I always grow for early potatoes, but, as others noted, it's not a great keeper.
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Re: Potato recommendations
I had never heard of Adirondack Red - I am intrigued!
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Re: Potato recommendations
To whom it may concern. I've grown Kennebec, and Pontiac, most of my life. But my tater growing years are coming to a end. Both varieties are great. But the last 2 years my PH level has changed. And I'm plagued with tater scabs. It just so happened that the 2 varieties I mentioned, are the MOST acceptable to scab disease. Red Norland is resistant to that disease. But I can't find them anywhere at a market.
PS..Just relaying information-- a few of the Russets is resistant also. You can google the scab disease. It looks like warts to me. It will sure start your taters to rot early. Research the resistant varieties
While hunting for resistant taters, the markets all told me I better buy fast. Because with the toilet paper scare. There was also a shortage on seed potatoes. Many broke into their seed potatoes bins, and sold their supply for the table taters.
PS..Just relaying information-- a few of the Russets is resistant also. You can google the scab disease. It looks like warts to me. It will sure start your taters to rot early. Research the resistant varieties
While hunting for resistant taters, the markets all told me I better buy fast. Because with the toilet paper scare. There was also a shortage on seed potatoes. Many broke into their seed potatoes bins, and sold their supply for the table taters.
- Whwoz
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Re: Potato recommendations
[mention]TomHillbilly[/mention] you mentioned above that your pH has changed. How has it changed and what is your current pH and by what method was it tested. It should be possible to reverse the change by careful addition of suitable chemicals
- bower
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Re: Potato recommendations
True word that the russets are scab resistant. I wish I liked them, because so easy to grow, and a clean crop scabwise.
We used to grow Kennebec and Pontiac Reds here too, in spite of the scab. Big yield from Kennebec but boring to my taste. The Pontiacs were a nice red, somewhat scab susceptible. We tried some other reds but never settled on a favorite, until the year we got blight, and that was the end of potato growing for me.
I have a bag of sprouty reds from the supermarket, and am cutting a few starts off them as I eat what is left. More the merrier, I guess...
We used to grow Kennebec and Pontiac Reds here too, in spite of the scab. Big yield from Kennebec but boring to my taste. The Pontiacs were a nice red, somewhat scab susceptible. We tried some other reds but never settled on a favorite, until the year we got blight, and that was the end of potato growing for me.
I have a bag of sprouty reds from the supermarket, and am cutting a few starts off them as I eat what is left. More the merrier, I guess...
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- karstopography
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Re: Potato recommendations
I’m likely growing a few potatoes soon. Bought Kennebec, Red Pontiac and Yukon Gold seed potatoes at the feed store today. Not a lot of each, 90 cents/pound, about a total spent of $3.25 worth, maybe 6-9 hen egg sized potatoes per variety, just for a trial run. Mid January through February is our time to plant here according to the county agricultural extension.
Spacing, how do you space yours? Texas A&M has it at 10-12” apart per seed potato and rows 36” apart, potatoes 3” deep in flattened built up rows. Fertilizer laid in parallel furrows below and to the side.
One thing TAMU mentioned was that the potaoes form above the level of the seed potato so It’s important to mound or mulch upward to allow for space.
Spacing, how do you space yours? Texas A&M has it at 10-12” apart per seed potato and rows 36” apart, potatoes 3” deep in flattened built up rows. Fertilizer laid in parallel furrows below and to the side.
One thing TAMU mentioned was that the potaoes form above the level of the seed potato so It’s important to mound or mulch upward to allow for space.
Zone 9b, located in the Columbia bottomlands, annual rainfall 46”
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Re: Potato recommendations
karstopography-- No ideal how to do a small patch of taters. People grow them every which way now-- even in straw, or buckets.
Doing regular taters the farmer's way, I never buried them that deep during the planting. I wanted sprouts to get up QUICKY. And not labor to come up through the soil. Tater will rot, if they don't peak through fairly fast. When the plants are about 8 inches tall, you can heel them up with all the soil cover you want. That is when I put the dirt to them. Run a tiller down the bulk, and pull the dirt up on top of the vine base. I plant my rows 48 inches apart, 42 will work. 3 feet would put a tiller blades mighty close to the roots. Some bury 3 inches during the planting-- I didn't.
Split those taters to where 2 eyes is FACING UP on every chunk you lay down in the row-- put chunks 9-10 inches apart. If frost kills your tops-- they will come back.
At one point when the vines are near knee high, the vines will fall over and lay in the bulk between the rows. There will be no more getting the tiller between your rows. So you pull up lose dirt for a cover, before they get knee high. Walk your rows once a day, after they get up. You are looking for the bug on this bottle picture. If you see any smash um on sight. And if you see more than a couple. You need to buy this product fast, and spray. NONE of the stuff you have will kill this bug. It has to have it's own spray. Nearest Co-op will stock it.
I've never grown less that 50 pound of seed taters. But I'm down sizing this year. Perhaps you can down size what I told you to fit your needs. I can only comment on what these eyes has seen. Some youtube videos of those growing in straw looks impressive. They do none of what I wrote. GOOD LUCK !
https://www.domyown.com/bonide-colorado ... ub_id=3679
Doing regular taters the farmer's way, I never buried them that deep during the planting. I wanted sprouts to get up QUICKY. And not labor to come up through the soil. Tater will rot, if they don't peak through fairly fast. When the plants are about 8 inches tall, you can heel them up with all the soil cover you want. That is when I put the dirt to them. Run a tiller down the bulk, and pull the dirt up on top of the vine base. I plant my rows 48 inches apart, 42 will work. 3 feet would put a tiller blades mighty close to the roots. Some bury 3 inches during the planting-- I didn't.
Split those taters to where 2 eyes is FACING UP on every chunk you lay down in the row-- put chunks 9-10 inches apart. If frost kills your tops-- they will come back.
At one point when the vines are near knee high, the vines will fall over and lay in the bulk between the rows. There will be no more getting the tiller between your rows. So you pull up lose dirt for a cover, before they get knee high. Walk your rows once a day, after they get up. You are looking for the bug on this bottle picture. If you see any smash um on sight. And if you see more than a couple. You need to buy this product fast, and spray. NONE of the stuff you have will kill this bug. It has to have it's own spray. Nearest Co-op will stock it.
I've never grown less that 50 pound of seed taters. But I'm down sizing this year. Perhaps you can down size what I told you to fit your needs. I can only comment on what these eyes has seen. Some youtube videos of those growing in straw looks impressive. They do none of what I wrote. GOOD LUCK !
https://www.domyown.com/bonide-colorado ... ub_id=3679
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Re: Potato recommendations
Regarding spacing, Maine Potato Lady's catalog has good advice for some varieties. I think I recall reading, for example, that Red Pontiac can grow very large and may develop hollow hearts. The remedy is to crowd them a bit closer when planting.
I tend to grow 10-12 different varieties in varying, mostly small quantities. Favorite for flavor is German Butterball, followed by Russian Banana fingerlings. Magic Molly is fast becoming a huge seller at market, along with Adirondack Red. Green Mountain is my favorite baker, but I'm from Vermont, the "Green Mountain State," so a bit of place pride comes into play. It helps that it's a darn tasty spud!
I tend to grow 10-12 different varieties in varying, mostly small quantities. Favorite for flavor is German Butterball, followed by Russian Banana fingerlings. Magic Molly is fast becoming a huge seller at market, along with Adirondack Red. Green Mountain is my favorite baker, but I'm from Vermont, the "Green Mountain State," so a bit of place pride comes into play. It helps that it's a darn tasty spud!
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Re: Potato recommendations
Saw one thing on TomH's reply that's not quite right. That was advice to place the seed piece with the eye on top. Although it would not matter, ideal would have the eyes on the side. The roots would then be able to immediately go down instead of having to go around the piece.
Martin
Martin
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Re: Potato recommendations
Do you want little waxy salad potatoes, or floury ones for mashing, or ones that roast well, or ones that get big for baked potatoes, or ones for turning into fries?