Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
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Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
How do I sow tomato seeds in the ground in June for a Fall crop? I want to direct sow for the best chance of a good tap root. My concern is enough moisture to germinate the seeds. I can water once per day.
SoCal is hot and dry and the surface soil will dry quickly.
...Can I plant deeper than 1/4 inch?
...Mix a lot of peat in the upper inch or two or three of soil?
...Mulch with a light colored mulch? I have some dried grass clippings from the string trimmer that are light brown, almost white.
...Terracotta watering spikes designed for vacation use. It is a terracotta spike that you place a water bottle on. One liter wine bottle is supposed to last about a week. They should work well for roots but will they keep the upper 1/4 inch of soil moist?
...a small shade device? from window screen?
SoCal is hot and dry and the surface soil will dry quickly.
...Can I plant deeper than 1/4 inch?
...Mix a lot of peat in the upper inch or two or three of soil?
...Mulch with a light colored mulch? I have some dried grass clippings from the string trimmer that are light brown, almost white.
...Terracotta watering spikes designed for vacation use. It is a terracotta spike that you place a water bottle on. One liter wine bottle is supposed to last about a week. They should work well for roots but will they keep the upper 1/4 inch of soil moist?
...a small shade device? from window screen?
- jmsieglaff
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
Never done such a thing. If I were here’s what I’d do. I plant shallow (as directed) water each AM, cover with a board or cardboard with a rock on it until you see a sprout. Then mulch with straw or similar around the tiny plant but allow Sun to reach the leaves.
Also kinda wonder why not start it indoors until it sprouts and can gain some size, harden off and then plant in ground so the plant is taller and you can mulch deeply?
Also kinda wonder why not start it indoors until it sprouts and can gain some size, harden off and then plant in ground so the plant is taller and you can mulch deeply?
- jmsieglaff
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
Also if you’re worried about the small plant not making it. Sow 6-8 seeds let them all grow and thin to 1 at some point, higher chances of success?
- karstopography
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
Random Tomato seedlings pop in my garden periodically. Sometimes, a lot, so much I have to weed them out. Is it possible to overthink this?
Zone 9b, located in the Columbia bottomlands, annual rainfall 46”
- jmsieglaff
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
This is a good point….I also don’t live in a hot desert so I probably can’t appreciate how quickly things can dry out?karstopography wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 9:06 pm Random Tomato seedlings pop in my garden periodically. Sometimes, a lot, so much I have to weed them out. Is it possible to overthink this?
- Shule
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
I'd suggest keeping them cool, while seed-starting, and giving them nitrates (not just any form of nitrogen) after the transplant every week for a few weeks. Also, organic matter would probably be especially important for late plantings in a hot, dry area.
The problem here isn't just the moisture, but also the heat, and disease. Tomatoes don't normally germinate above 90 degrees F. Plus, if you do get seedlings, diseases can be a bigger problem that time of year with seed-starting indoors, in my experience (maybe not everyone's). Also, heat/drought can stunt seedlings outdoors (you'd probably want to give them nitrates and maybe other stuff to compensate for the lack of nitrates from rain). I've found that calcium nitrate is the only thing (of quite a few nutrients) I've tried that helps prevent stunting of late transplants. I administer it as a foliar spray, typically, but it would probably do the same in the soil.
The problem here isn't just the moisture, but also the heat, and disease. Tomatoes don't normally germinate above 90 degrees F. Plus, if you do get seedlings, diseases can be a bigger problem that time of year with seed-starting indoors, in my experience (maybe not everyone's). Also, heat/drought can stunt seedlings outdoors (you'd probably want to give them nitrates and maybe other stuff to compensate for the lack of nitrates from rain). I've found that calcium nitrate is the only thing (of quite a few nutrients) I've tried that helps prevent stunting of late transplants. I administer it as a foliar spray, typically, but it would probably do the same in the soil.
Location: SW Idaho, USA
Climate: BSk
USDA hardiness zone: 6
Elevation: 2,260 feet
Climate: BSk
USDA hardiness zone: 6
Elevation: 2,260 feet
- WoodSprite
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
I direct seeded a tomato plant in my garden in Pennsylvania last year. This is not the normal practice here and no one I know has done it here. What I did was cut off the bottom to a gallon milk jug, removed the cap for ventilation. Then I put the seed 1/4" deep in my garden bed where I wanted it to grow. My garden soil is made from 50% compost & 50% topsoil. Every year or two I top the bed off with more straight compost (that's made locally from leaves and grass clippings).
I mulch my gardens with pine shavings that I get from Tractor Supply Company though I brushed the mulch away from the area that I put the seed so the mulch didn't hamper the seedling. Once the seed was in the soil, I used the prepared jug as a cloche and pushed it into the soil a bit to shelter the seed from our still freezing temperatures. I was concerned that the jug would blow away so I put a rough-shaped rock on top. The rough shape of the rock still allowed ventilation.
After it germinated and was several inches tall and looking strong, I mulched it. When daytime temps got warmer, I hardened it off by removing the jug for a while in increasing amounts of time until I could leave it off. Anytime I watered it, I watered the soil near it, not directly on the plant.
I started this tomato plant the day after I started the same variety ('Matina') indoors under lights which is the normal way for my area. Normal plant out time here is mid to late May though I always wait to plant out tender plants until late May. I sowed this seed on April 12. On May 12 I noticed it was approx. 3-inches tall. My other plant that I started indoors, I planted out on May 26. I harvested the first fruit from my direct seeded plant 7 days before I harvested my first fruit from my indoor-started plant.
I don't know how well this would work in your hotter environment. If you decided to try this, you could drill or cut holes near the top of the jug for even more ventilation so it doesn't overheat as easily and remove the jug sooner than I did.
I mulch my gardens with pine shavings that I get from Tractor Supply Company though I brushed the mulch away from the area that I put the seed so the mulch didn't hamper the seedling. Once the seed was in the soil, I used the prepared jug as a cloche and pushed it into the soil a bit to shelter the seed from our still freezing temperatures. I was concerned that the jug would blow away so I put a rough-shaped rock on top. The rough shape of the rock still allowed ventilation.
After it germinated and was several inches tall and looking strong, I mulched it. When daytime temps got warmer, I hardened it off by removing the jug for a while in increasing amounts of time until I could leave it off. Anytime I watered it, I watered the soil near it, not directly on the plant.
I started this tomato plant the day after I started the same variety ('Matina') indoors under lights which is the normal way for my area. Normal plant out time here is mid to late May though I always wait to plant out tender plants until late May. I sowed this seed on April 12. On May 12 I noticed it was approx. 3-inches tall. My other plant that I started indoors, I planted out on May 26. I harvested the first fruit from my direct seeded plant 7 days before I harvested my first fruit from my indoor-started plant.
I don't know how well this would work in your hotter environment. If you decided to try this, you could drill or cut holes near the top of the jug for even more ventilation so it doesn't overheat as easily and remove the jug sooner than I did.
~ Darlene ~
My garden is made of multiple 6' diameter x 24" tall round stock tanks, located in a small clearing on our wooded property in the center of Pennsylvania. Hardiness zone 6b (updated). Heat zone 4.
My garden is made of multiple 6' diameter x 24" tall round stock tanks, located in a small clearing on our wooded property in the center of Pennsylvania. Hardiness zone 6b (updated). Heat zone 4.
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
I plan on trying a couple of things. I want to extend my growing season. This past year I harvested a few small Japanese Black Trifele a couple of weeks ago. The best way for me to get an extended season is still an unknown. What variety? when and how to plant for better results?
I direct sowed several seeds in a container about a month ago. When I pulled the extras they had a beautiful tap root. I know cuttings don't develop a tap root. I don't know what kind of tap root is hiding in the mass of roots in the indoor starts. Also I don't know if encouraging a good tap root helps in a hot dry climate when planted in the ground. I drip water for a long time to get deep water. We get no rain until maybe November.
I am guessing starting a few indoors in a tall four inch pot might result in a plant with a good tap root. I could then plant deep in maybe August and probably get better results than direct seeding. I have been growing tomatoes for many years but never tried to extend the season. I tried micros this year but I don't want to do that again. I tried several varieties but they all produced too small tomatoes. They also competed for space under the lights when I wanted to start my regular tomatoes.
I direct sowed several seeds in a container about a month ago. When I pulled the extras they had a beautiful tap root. I know cuttings don't develop a tap root. I don't know what kind of tap root is hiding in the mass of roots in the indoor starts. Also I don't know if encouraging a good tap root helps in a hot dry climate when planted in the ground. I drip water for a long time to get deep water. We get no rain until maybe November.
I am guessing starting a few indoors in a tall four inch pot might result in a plant with a good tap root. I could then plant deep in maybe August and probably get better results than direct seeding. I have been growing tomatoes for many years but never tried to extend the season. I tried micros this year but I don't want to do that again. I tried several varieties but they all produced too small tomatoes. They also competed for space under the lights when I wanted to start my regular tomatoes.
- worth1
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
I'm worried about y'alls water supply.
I've put misters on a timer to sprout seeds outside before.
I've put misters on a timer to sprout seeds outside before.
Worth
25 miles southeast of Waterloo Texas.
You can't argue with a closed mind.
You might as well be arguing with a cat.
25 miles southeast of Waterloo Texas.
You can't argue with a closed mind.
You might as well be arguing with a cat.
- worth1
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
I've had countless tomato seeds sprout by neglect in the middle of the summer here in Central Texas.
It isn't that much different than So Cal except for a lot hotter here most of the time.
With no rain in the summer our humidity goes way down many times.
I have lived just north of San Diego and just about every climate you can think of in Texas.
I also spent quite a bit of time in the Majove desert.
That desert in geographic terms runs from the coast of California to just into Central Texas.
The names just change.
It isn't that much different than So Cal except for a lot hotter here most of the time.
With no rain in the summer our humidity goes way down many times.
I have lived just north of San Diego and just about every climate you can think of in Texas.
I also spent quite a bit of time in the Majove desert.
That desert in geographic terms runs from the coast of California to just into Central Texas.
The names just change.
Worth
25 miles southeast of Waterloo Texas.
You can't argue with a closed mind.
You might as well be arguing with a cat.
25 miles southeast of Waterloo Texas.
You can't argue with a closed mind.
You might as well be arguing with a cat.
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
I don't have enough water pressure in the main garden for a mister. I tried a water wick in a gallon milk jug filled with water. The string did wick the water although very slowly. I don't think direct sowing in the summer is a good idea. I may try direct sowing in the early season next year similar to what @WoodSprite did.
I think this is the best approach for starting a Fall crop. Now I have to figure out the best varieties for a late season crop.jmsieglaff wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 8:56 pm Also kinda wonder why not start it indoors until it sprouts and can gain some size, harden off and then plant in ground so the plant is taller and you can mulch deeply?
- Tormato
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
If you do try direct seeding, I also recommend the board method.
It's basically necessary for growing carrots, here. A scrap piece of 1 X 8 pine would work fine. It keeps the moisture in the soil, and prevents seeds from washing away (carrots are sown virtually at the surface) in heavy rains.
Sowing several seeds at multiple depths (1/8"? & 1/4"?), and then selecting for the best seedling, would be how I'd try it. The board should likely be removed after 3 to 4 days.
It's basically necessary for growing carrots, here. A scrap piece of 1 X 8 pine would work fine. It keeps the moisture in the soil, and prevents seeds from washing away (carrots are sown virtually at the surface) in heavy rains.
Sowing several seeds at multiple depths (1/8"? & 1/4"?), and then selecting for the best seedling, would be how I'd try it. The board should likely be removed after 3 to 4 days.
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
I'm gardening in 6b (Ohio), so I don't know if my methods would be entirely effective, but I always have some direct-seeded varieties in my garden. Usually these are fast-growing E. European varieties, but I want production by at least late mid-season and probably have a shorter season than you do.
In my experience, for deep root growth, you want to work the soil down deep so it's not compacted. If the soil I'm working with dries out quickly, then I remove a good portion of the original and mix in Miracle Grow Moisture Control Potting mix which hangs on to moisture longer. Also, in order to minimize evaporation, I mulch the entire tomato patch with a thick layer of straw. A secondary purpose is it completely controls the weeds so I don't have to mess with weeding. I've also found that when watering, it needs to be slow and steady enough to penetrate deeply because if you only wet the soil surface, that's where the roots will stay and you'll end up with a vicious cycle where you have to water more and more and the plants end up in a perpetual state of stress because of the rapid moisture fluctuations. If your area is really hot with a lot of intense sun, maybe a filtered shade cloth over your plants would also help slow down evaporation and protect them from scalding. I've not tried the latter, but again it's because I'm in Ohio and haven't needed the extra protection in my zone.
In my experience, for deep root growth, you want to work the soil down deep so it's not compacted. If the soil I'm working with dries out quickly, then I remove a good portion of the original and mix in Miracle Grow Moisture Control Potting mix which hangs on to moisture longer. Also, in order to minimize evaporation, I mulch the entire tomato patch with a thick layer of straw. A secondary purpose is it completely controls the weeds so I don't have to mess with weeding. I've also found that when watering, it needs to be slow and steady enough to penetrate deeply because if you only wet the soil surface, that's where the roots will stay and you'll end up with a vicious cycle where you have to water more and more and the plants end up in a perpetual state of stress because of the rapid moisture fluctuations. If your area is really hot with a lot of intense sun, maybe a filtered shade cloth over your plants would also help slow down evaporation and protect them from scalding. I've not tried the latter, but again it's because I'm in Ohio and haven't needed the extra protection in my zone.
Debbie
- habitat-gardener
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
I bought some tomato seeds from Nikitovka last year. The descriptions indicated that they were suitable for direct seeding. I intended to try it but ran out of time!
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
I hope Nikitovka comes back because they were a good vendor. Sometimes their tomato seeds don't always come true, but I've also had a lot of nice things from them with generous seed counts. My last order was actually days before the invasion. When I looked up their address, they were right in the path of some of the worst areas in Irpin and they were at least OK at that time and the package still somehow was able to make it.habitat-gardener wrote: ↑Thu May 12, 2022 1:53 pm I bought some tomato seeds from Nikitovka last year. The descriptions indicated that they were suitable for direct seeding. I intended to try it but ran out of time!
FYI there's another vendor which is still open and begging for new orders to help them right now. I haven't ordered from them previously because I just stumbled on them, but they have some interesting Ukrainian heirlooms on their site as well as Western varieties. I'm astounded that their postal system has been working and I have a package on the way. They're at https://organicseeds.top/shop/vegetable ... f-tomatoes
Debbie
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
FYI I do have some direct sow varieties I'm willing to share. Not sure how they'd do in hot climates though. If you're willing to try a currant tomato, I also have a Florida wild native (Everglades) that I direct sowed several years ago and it's naturalized and re-seeded itself every year after. In fact, I had so many last year that I sent J.L. Hudson about 1 pound of cleaned & dried seed and that was only a portion of the fruit. I don't care or water them at all anymore and I've read they'll even produce and survive in the heat of Florida summers. They're small, about nickle sized, and a pain to pick, but they have a surprisingly good full tomato flavor and there are so many of them. I have seeds for those too.
Debbie
- Wildcat82
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
You'd have much better luck cloning plants you're growing now (hopefully you're growing some). Normally I root my cutting 2 weeks indoors then put them outside in full shade til they're big enough to plant out.
Last edited by Wildcat82 on Sun May 15, 2022 10:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Wildcat82
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
You sow your seeds in a climate controlled environment, give them the perfect amount of light and nutrients, carefully harden them off, plant them in a specially formulated potting mix, constantly spray anti-fungals and miticides, put them on a regular watering/fertilizer regimen, etc., and still have half your plants croak. Meanwhile volunteer tomatoes pop up in a rock pile, crack in the sidewalk, or in some caliche soil in a 100 degree heatwave.worth1 wrote: ↑Sat May 07, 2022 8:30 am I've had countless tomato seeds sprout by neglect in the middle of the summer here in Central Texas.
It isn't that much different than So Cal except for a lot hotter here most of the time.
With no rain in the summer our humidity goes way down many times.
I have lived just north of San Diego and just about every climate you can think of in Texas.
I also spent quite a bit of time in the Majove desert.
That desert in geographic terms runs from the coast of California to just into Central Texas.
The names just change.
Nature can be funny like that.
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
From the Park Seed Blog. Tomatoes are on their start indoor list. I know for a fact that they can be direct seeded in the Spring because I have had healthy productive volunteers that produced well.
Which seeds can be sown in the garden and which ones will need to be started indoors and transplanted later? Read on for a complete list.
Starting a garden from seeds is one of the smartest decisions you can make for your garden. You’ll cut down significantly on costs and you’ll have a wider selection of plants to choose from. Talk about a win-win! Once you’ve made the decision to plant your garden with seeds instead of transplants, you need to decide which ones to plant. You’ll also need to decide whether you can sow them straight into your garden or if you need to start them inside.
https://parkseed.com/blog/vegetables-bl ... irect-sow/
Which seeds can be sown in the garden and which ones will need to be started indoors and transplanted later? Read on for a complete list.
Starting a garden from seeds is one of the smartest decisions you can make for your garden. You’ll cut down significantly on costs and you’ll have a wider selection of plants to choose from. Talk about a win-win! Once you’ve made the decision to plant your garden with seeds instead of transplants, you need to decide which ones to plant. You’ll also need to decide whether you can sow them straight into your garden or if you need to start them inside.
https://parkseed.com/blog/vegetables-bl ... irect-sow/
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Re: Direct sowing tomato seeds in the summer
My current plan is to plant starts through June. I'll contemplate plantings in August or September. I am debating the best pot size. I want to encourage a tap root. I think a deep pot with a nice root ball would be helpful. Also I am preparing a location by loosening the soil about 18 inches deep with an auger and adding organic matter. I will try at least one short season variety (Stupice) which is recommended for a late season planting.
I think direct seeding may be a good option earlier in the season.
I found this to be interesting:
<snip>
Actually, if I read the tomato article correctly, the reverse is true:
Since the root system is disturbed and the development of the plant more or less checked at each transplanting, it might be concluded that plants grown from seed sown directly in pots or other containers would grow more vigorously and give a higher yield than those once or twice transplanted. In fact this has been shown by numerous investigations to be the case. That transplanting in itself does not promote an early crop nor an increased yield has been also clearly demonstrated.
In an experiment in Wisconsin three crops of tomatoes were grown . . . In each case seeds were planted singly in 6-inch pots in the greenhouse; when the plants were about 2 inches in height, two-thirds of the whole number were dug up and reset in the same pots; later, one-half of these were again transplanted in a similar manner. As soon as weather permitted, 10 plants of each lot were knocked from the pots and set 4 by 8 feet apart in open ground, every precaution being taken to avoid injury to the roots. 29
Those not transplanted yielded more than those once transplanted, while those twice transplanted yielded least. The total for 10 plants with each treatment during a 3-year period was, 1,175, 1,131, and 1,001 pounds, respectively.
<snip>
https://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1150798/#b
I ordered some 5.3 x 6.15 inch pots I found on Amazon. I am going to try direct seeding in the pot about now for late June planting.
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https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B07SHQRP8R&a ... dka_US_sea
I think direct seeding may be a good option earlier in the season.
I found this to be interesting:
<snip>
Actually, if I read the tomato article correctly, the reverse is true:
Since the root system is disturbed and the development of the plant more or less checked at each transplanting, it might be concluded that plants grown from seed sown directly in pots or other containers would grow more vigorously and give a higher yield than those once or twice transplanted. In fact this has been shown by numerous investigations to be the case. That transplanting in itself does not promote an early crop nor an increased yield has been also clearly demonstrated.
In an experiment in Wisconsin three crops of tomatoes were grown . . . In each case seeds were planted singly in 6-inch pots in the greenhouse; when the plants were about 2 inches in height, two-thirds of the whole number were dug up and reset in the same pots; later, one-half of these were again transplanted in a similar manner. As soon as weather permitted, 10 plants of each lot were knocked from the pots and set 4 by 8 feet apart in open ground, every precaution being taken to avoid injury to the roots. 29
Those not transplanted yielded more than those once transplanted, while those twice transplanted yielded least. The total for 10 plants with each treatment during a 3-year period was, 1,175, 1,131, and 1,001 pounds, respectively.
<snip>
https://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1150798/#b
I ordered some 5.3 x 6.15 inch pots I found on Amazon. I am going to try direct seeding in the pot about now for late June planting.
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https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B07SHQRP8R&a ... dka_US_sea