I tried Mykos (brand) a couple of years ago, and really couldn't see any difference in overall plant performance in an EarthBox environment using the normal EB fertilizing strip. But maybe my conclusions were not correct?

Have you tried it and seen positive results? Or just something else to lighten the wallet?
-GG

GG, good question. I believe the bacteria works with soil, and I have see an improvement with inground planting.
Your Earthbox question can also be applied to soilless mix in transplants, and yes I did see improvement in that use, I also sneak a bit of compost in so the combination may be a factor.
The brand chosen seem to make a difference too.
All still inconclusive. Hopefully definitive side by side results will be posted.
- Lisa

Good question! I have used Mykos and other brands over the years. When pulling the roots at the end of the season I can see the nodules that form so something is happening. Have not done side by side testing but plants do seem to do a bit better. I plant tomatoes in straw bales to which I add potting mix, manure and compost so the bacteria have a place to thrive.
Will continue using it since it certainly does no harm!

Yes I think that you can, especially in seedlings. As they grow older the difference is not so much except that possibly I have seen more disease resistance.
Dutch had a great thread on this at Tville. His photos showed great results with his seedlings. He even trialed differing brands. Perhaps he will see this and post it here.

I have a horrible problem indoors with fungus gnats. The larvae attack the roots and the seedlings start to get pale, don't uptake water well, and die. I use Gnatrol and also Myco Blast to kill the gnats and strengthen the damaged roots. I do see a difference. Don't know if there would be a noticeable difference if I didn't have the gnat problem.

Marsha has a great trick she taught me to use Seabright yellow sticky traps.

If I get them really bad, I will also use Gnatrol or Mosquito Dunks. Some people add hydrogen peroxide to their water. I don't use that method so don't know how it works.

I think that planting in containers may benefit from some additional mycorrhizae but I grow in-ground and since I garden organically, there are plenty of microbes already there in my healthy soil. No need for me to add anything.

I like mycogrow from fungi perfecti. The price seems reasonable.

Cole_Robbie wrote: ↑Sun Dec 15, 2019 6:37 pm I like mycogrow from fungi perfecti. The price seems reasonable.

It is a good product, worked well in my tomato plot at the community gardens.

Cole_Robbie wrote: ↑Sun Dec 15, 2019 6:37 pm I like mycogrow from fungi perfecti. The price seems reasonable.

Amazon evidently doesn't carry it. One ounce pkts, so I presume this is basically a fine powder? Do you buy this direct from mfg. or somewhere else?

Heya Greatgardens,

Here is a link to read about the soil microbiology of Charles Dowding´s soil. He conducted 2 soil tests and also more links to the results. Hope this might help provide some insight into Mycorrhizae and fungi in ´well-fed´ soil

www.charlesdowding.co.uk/towards-winter ... egetables/

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1H8k ... 9K2xA/edit

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1r3r ... sWFgA/edit

MissS wrote: ↑Sun Dec 15, 2019 11:43 am Yes I think that you can, especially in seedlings. As they grow older the difference is not so much except that possibly I have seen more disease resistance.
Dutch had a great thread on this at Tville. His photos showed great results with his seedlings. He even trialed differing brands. Perhaps he will see this and post it here.

Perhaps this one?
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.p ... =Celebrity

I thought that I had successfully posted a reply earlier today, but it doesn't seem to show up. Anyway, I think this is the thread that you are referring to. I've been looking at YouTube videos on mycorrhizae experiments. Interesting. None that I've seen are really very rigorous, but give some indication of positive results or no difference.

Yes Greatgardens that is the one. Thank you for finding it. His experiment does show very nice results results using Mycorrhizae. I too use Fungi Perfects Mycogrow which we get directly from the vendor. It is affordable too.

Greatgardens wrote: ↑Mon Dec 16, 2019 4:10 am

Cole_Robbie wrote: ↑Sun Dec 15, 2019 6:37 pm I like mycogrow from fungi perfecti. The price seems reasonable.

Amazon evidently doesn't carry it. One ounce pkts, so I presume this is basically a fine powder? Do you buy this direct from mfg. or somewhere else?

Yes, it is a powder. There are 2 products. One is for starting seeds. Here is the link:
https://fungi.com/products/mycogrow_soluble

I tried this product in 2015, and I didn't notice a difference. Not to say there wasn't one. I mostly used it on watermelon, but possibly on some tomatoes, squash and stuff, too.

I ordered a packet each of the MycoGrow for vegetables and soluble to try for next season. Hoping for some good results!

In order to see if it makes any difference, you need a control group that does not receive the Mycos.

I bought some as a side experiment so interested in views here. Might just add as part of seedling mix as plants are grown in soil anyhow. Might be easier to have control groups at seedling stage ?

When I first found Mycorrhizae when dabbling in hydroponics, I experimented with it in one tub, and one w/o, and all else the same. The one with the MR was noticeably better, with larger, bright white roots on all of the plants, and larger plants. I've bought various brands, depending on the prices at the time, and had good results with all.

Nan6b wrote: ↑Sun Dec 15, 2019 1:51 pm I have a horrible problem indoors with fungus gnats. The larvae attack the roots and the seedlings start to get pale, don't uptake water well, and die. I use Gnatrol and also Myco Blast to kill the gnats and strengthen the damaged roots. I do see a difference. Don't know if there would be a noticeable difference if I didn't have the gnat problem.

I always use some mosquito dunks, broken into small pieces (it doesn't take much!), in my hydroponics and SIPs, starting out, and every month or month and a half, and never have a problem! And when making up my seed starting mix, I moisten it with some water, with a few drops of a Microbe-lift solution, which is the same as the mosquito dunk - Bt israelensis. I never have to do a second moistening with it for seedlings, but for indoor plants, I always water them every month with a small amount of it, wetting the top couple of inches of each pot (usually I water from the bottom). Before this stuff, I had horrible trouble with fungus gnats! And to prove how it works, stupid me - I forgot to add some to the soil for the small number of seeds I started indoors, for fall crops, and last night I saw the gnats! I quickly watered with some, then sprayed with something I keep in case of problems with my hydro - some cedar based spray - and they were gone next time I looked. The Microbe-lift will get rid of the larvae.

The Microbe-lift that I use I get in a 6 oz container, and it only takes 8 drops/gal of water. It says it stays good for 2 years @ room temp, but I keep that, along with the myco, bean inoculant, rooting gel, and a few other things in a small box, in the fridge. I've had it remain effective for 3 years, and I would know if it wasn't effective quickly, as I found out by my mistake! lol

Reviving this older thread. I potted up a dozen sweet peppers a bit early (one true leaf just forming) in the organic Whitney Farms potting mix and I am not wowed by their growth. Yesterday I purchased a 12 qt bag of Fox Farms for the remainder 30 pepper plants. I am going to wait for the remaining 30 dense planting to mature before restarting the project. Some for inground, also growing 6 in an Earthbox again this year.

I remember the tomato experiment by Dutch and it was impressive. At the time I had used a different myco brand which is no longer in business (at least not under that name). My local garden center sells MYKE brand which is manufactured by the Pro-Mix folks in Canada. Would the nutrition from the fish products in the soil render the endomycorrhizae inactive? A youtuber claims the endomycorrhizae in the MYKE Tree and Shrub formulation (blue package) is identical to the Herb and Vegetable formulation (green package). Price is the same, but a better date on the blue package, likely because they walk you over when you buy a tree.

My hydro store sells different $$$ brands. Besides the Fungi Perfect. anything exciting on Amazon in the $20 ish range. I don't need a gallon!

- Lisa