Barb_FL wrote: ↑Sat Nov 07, 2020 8:40 pm Ginger2778 (Marsha) can diagnosis all leaf problems. Hopefully, she will stop by and see this.

The Florida season is really long so you have plenty of time if you need to start over with those 2 plants.

Welcome - Marsha grows tomatoes exclusively in Earthboxes and I grow in either EB or Root Pouches.

I used to grow a lot of Dwarf tomato project tomatoes - they taste great, but something with rugose leaves and Florida (could be me) stopped working. I've switched to determinate tomatoes.

MissS wrote: ↑Sat Nov 07, 2020 8:53 pm I agree that it's a blight on your first plant. If it is early blight it can be controlled if you catch it early enough. If it's late blight there just is no cure. The plant in your first photo looks to be too involved to be able to salvage. Your second plant appears to have gray mold and perhaps early blight. Both of these are fungal diseases that can be treated with fungicides. I see that you are in Florida which is a great place for disease to run rampant if you do not use some kind of program to keep disease in check. We have some great members here that are experts at dealing with your climate. Check out this thread: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1555
I alternate using Daconil and Liquid Copper on my plants. I spray them every week with one or the other as a preventative, since my summers are very hot and humid.

Ginger2778 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 12, 2020 2:17 pm The first photo is probably fungal, but could be a chemical burn, or even overfertilizing. I'm going with fungal because we have had so much rain and humidity. Daconil is a good preventive but won't do a thing for already infected plants. I always use liquid copper fungicide at 1/2 of the weakest recommended strength , and even then sometimes its strong and will make your growth stunted for about 3 weeks. If you see blue on the leaves when you spray, its too strong. More is not better with copper.
The second photo is some of that same fungus, but also a magnesium deficiency. That's the interveinal chlorosis(yellowing). A Tablespoon of Epsom salt to one gallon of water will help. Those already yellow spots won't go away though.
I grow in 48 Earthboxes, and I don't limit my varieties to just determinate. I mostly grow indeterminate ones in my earthboxes. So to suggest good varieties, I'm at a loss, since they all work mostly.

Ginger2778 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 23, 2020 9:44 pm My apologies for taking so long to answer your questions.
My copper spray routine is evety 7 to 10 days, and also after a heavy rain. It's a great preventive, and is antibacterial and also antifungal.
If you follow the Earthbox fertilizer strip directions, type and quantity, and place the plants where it shows you, there won't be any problems with it.
Those plants look very far gone, I would start over because there's time with our long seasons in Florida.

My trellising is tomato cages around the plants, and field fence cages I nade for outside the earthbox rim.here is a photo of just yhe outer cage taken while solarizing this Summer. Also one showing the tomato cages inside.
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