Two tomato questions...

[Stitchingmom]

What is your fertilizing schedule? I grow in grow bags, and am happy with it, but I don't feel like I am using best practices when fertilizing. I watered less last year, and feel that I have that part under control. I use Mel's mix.

Also, has anyone ever used Mycorrhizal Inoculant? I got some last year, but it was late in the season, and I don't think it worked as it was supposed to. I still have some left, but I would like to hear some of your experiences.

Thank you!

[pepperhead212]

Yes, I use that micorrhyzae all the time, when transplanting tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, and it does work well (just a tsp or two, spread around where the pot is going in) - when I first tried it, I did about half with it, and they definitely showed better growth, than the ones without. And I use it in the seedling mix, which may be why some of those seedlings grow much faster than they used to, though with those, I didn't do a control group. I don't remember the exact amount I put in the seedling mix, but it doesn't take long to notice some white, fungus like growth on the surface. Two years ago, I got a new batch, of a sort of granular type, as I thought the old batch (a black powdery type) seemed to be slowing down, STS, and the new batch was definitely faster, with that growth. I didn't throw the old away - just scratched the little bit into my herb bed. And I only add it in the beginning - not when fertilizing later on. As for fertilizers, I use SIPs for containers, so the fertilizer is in there all season, adding small amounts of calcium nitrate to tomatoes, and occasionally some epsom salts, for the magnesium.

[zeuspaul]

I use Garden-tone organic fertilizer before planting and that's it. It fertilizes as it breaks down. As the summer progresses I have too many other garden chores to worry about fertilizing. I plant enough tomatoes to not worry about getting the best out of each plant.

[Stitchingmom]

Yes, I use that micorrhyzae all the time, when transplanting tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, and it does work well (just a tsp or two, spread around where the pot is going in) - when I first tried it, I did about half with it, and they definitely showed better growth, than the ones without. And I use it in the seedling mix, which may be why some of those seedlings grow much faster than they used to, though with those, I didn't do a control group. I don't remember the exact amount I put in the seedling mix, but it doesn't take long to notice some white, fungus like growth on the surface. Two years ago, I got a new batch, of a sort of granular type, as I thought the old batch (a black powdery type) seemed to be slowing down, STS, and the new batch was definitely faster, with that growth. I didn't throw the old away - just scratched the little bit into my herb bed. And I only add it in the beginning - not when fertilizing later on. As for fertilizers, I use SIPs for containers, so the fertilizer is in there all season, adding small amounts of calcium nitrate to tomatoes, and occasionally some epsom salts, for the magnesium.

Thanks! Should I add a little when I plant the seedlings and then a bit more when they get to their final up pot?

[Stitchingmom]

I use Garden-tone organic fertilizer before planting and that's it. It fertilizes as it breaks down. As the summer progresses I have too many other garden chores to worry about fertilizing. I plant enough tomatoes to not worry about getting the best out of each plant.

Thank you! I use Garden Tone, but I also use fish fertilizer and pay attention to any that need nitrogen or calmag. Do you think I would need more than one application since mine are in porous grow bags?

[zeuspaul]

It can't hurt to make a second application. It's difficult over fertilizing with organic fertilizer. I don't think the porosity of grow bags would make a difference, just a guess. I have never used grow bags. I would think water retention would be more of an issue. My way isn't the best way, it just saves me time.

[Paulf]

My fertilizer program is to make sure the entire garden is in balance by doing an annual soil test utilizing a professional soil testing lab. The soil sample is taken after the growing season is completed. The testing lab recommendations are followed for the next season. After almost twenty years of high pH requiring elemental sulphur, this year the soil is just below the 7.0 range so no sulphur. The garden does need some phosphorus which without a good soil test I would never know about. The lab has also called for a little extra N this year.

With the entire garden at maximum balanced fertility there is no need for any other expense and no guessing what will work and what is a waste. Too much of something can be as dangerous as too little.

[AKgardener]

I tried the Mycro but I couldn’t tell if it did anything because I used it indoors.I got tomato tone left over it’s what I used last year just used it when I first planted in ground then later at the end . I grow all my tomatoes and peppers in pots I just use masterblend every 2 weeks…

[zeuspaul]

Do you think I would need more than one application since mine are in porous grow bags?

I should add the size of the grow bag will make a difference. Growing in small containers/bags will require more frequent attention to adding fertilizer. If not in the ground most of my tomatoes are grown in 25 gal containers. Helps with watering in my warm/hot dry summers in addition to holding more nutrients.

[Cole_Robbie]

I alternate calcium nitrate with master blend 4 18 38. I apply at every watering, but mix both of them lightly.

[sleepy man]

I also tend to use whatever organic fertilizers are on sale that day about twice a growing season. But given how hot it gets where I live, I mulch all my pots with leaf litter. As it breaks down its a slow release of nutrients and helps retain moisture