Mosaic virus?
- svalli
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Mosaic virus?
Oh s...t!
Is this some kind of mosaic virus on my both Blush 2.0 plants. Leaves are narrow and crinkled and have yellow spots.
I think that I need to destroy them quickly.
Sari

Is this some kind of mosaic virus on my both Blush 2.0 plants. Leaves are narrow and crinkled and have yellow spots.
I think that I need to destroy them quickly.
Sari
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Last edited by svalli on Wed Jun 23, 2021 1:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- bower
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Re: Mosaic virus?
There are a lot of causes of leaf curling besides viruses. I find it pretty common if you have stress of some kind - cold or wet soil, insufficient light, etc. that the plants will roll or contort their leaves but it generally passes as they grow out of their 'early stress' days. Unless the weather stays really horrible, or something is taking up residence to lunch on the roots....
This plant in your pic looks like a 'wispy leaf', is that right? Because if so, they are always looking like they're about to die of something, and really prone to looking wilted, rolled, etc etc.
I would ignore it.
This plant in your pic looks like a 'wispy leaf', is that right? Because if so, they are always looking like they're about to die of something, and really prone to looking wilted, rolled, etc etc.

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- jmsieglaff
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Re: Mosaic virus?
I agree with [mention]Bower[/mention] it looks a wispy leaf variety--what variety is it?
- svalli
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Re: Mosaic virus?
Variety is Blush 2.0. the lower leaves are not wispy an there is yellow mottling on the new leaves.
I think that I will have to try to move it out from the greenhouse. I have them growing in same container with one Weisser Pfirsich
Sari
I think that I will have to try to move it out from the greenhouse. I have them growing in same container with one Weisser Pfirsich
Sari
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- bower
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Re: Mosaic virus?
It could be some kind of insect attack, mites or similar darn small things. Sometimes one variety is more susceptible than another. Or it could be a nutritional issue. The look of the plants says to me, my roots are not getting what I need.
But TBH, I only once had a plant that I thought had mosaic virus, so long ago I've forgotten what it looked like too.
But TBH, I only once had a plant that I thought had mosaic virus, so long ago I've forgotten what it looked like too.
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- svalli
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Re: Mosaic virus?
There has not yet been any insects in the greenhouse so far other than spiders. I have been inspecting plants for mites with a magnifying glass, since those darn things every year attack cucumbers and peppers. There is an other variety of tomato in same container and so far it looks OK, so I doubt that it is nutritional.
When I look pictures of Tobacco Mosaic Virus and Tomato Mosaic Virus affected tomato leaves, these look the same. I had similar problems already last year and this year I changed all potting media and cleaned the greenhouse, but it seems that I could not get rid of the virus.
I moved that container now out from the greenhouse, but it may no help because the virus may have already been spread to other plants in the greenhouse.
Sari
When I look pictures of Tobacco Mosaic Virus and Tomato Mosaic Virus affected tomato leaves, these look the same. I had similar problems already last year and this year I changed all potting media and cleaned the greenhouse, but it seems that I could not get rid of the virus.
I moved that container now out from the greenhouse, but it may no help because the virus may have already been spread to other plants in the greenhouse.
Sari
"I only want to live in peace, plant potatoes and dream."
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Re: Mosaic virus?
Doesn't really look like a virus. The first pictures is hard to say, the picture in the second post shows very probably zinc deficiency.
Chlorosis should appear first on young but not very young leaves, first near the midrib, then it starts to extend towards younger and younger leaves. If you think the symptoms match my description apply some zinc sulfate (or preferably edta) watered with low pH water (like 5). Something like a knife tip per plant should be plenty, the recovery is not very fast (1-2 weeks) and not complete, especially for the older leaves.
There's more than one micronutrient deficiency there, that's why also the twisting of the leaves, I'm guessing there's some excess there blocking them or high pH, are you watering with very hard water by any chance?
Chlorosis should appear first on young but not very young leaves, first near the midrib, then it starts to extend towards younger and younger leaves. If you think the symptoms match my description apply some zinc sulfate (or preferably edta) watered with low pH water (like 5). Something like a knife tip per plant should be plenty, the recovery is not very fast (1-2 weeks) and not complete, especially for the older leaves.
There's more than one micronutrient deficiency there, that's why also the twisting of the leaves, I'm guessing there's some excess there blocking them or high pH, are you watering with very hard water by any chance?